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National Fantasy Fan, February 17, 1945
Page 11
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[title centered] HEKTO AND DITTO REPRODUCTION Prepared by JOE KENNEDY, New Jersey A Hektograph is a flat, rectangular metal pan filled with a gelatin containing glycerin. Originals are drawn or typed in specially made hekto inks composed largely of pigment. The mast copy is placed face downward on the moistened gelatin, removed, and blank paper lain on the hekto, rubbed lightly, and taken off. The glycerin jelly thus leaves an impression on each sheet of paper. Hektographs are made in the three usual sizes: Note, about 5 1/4 x 8"; Letter, 8 1/2 x 11", and Legal, 10 x 14". Also, double hektos are obtainable -- actually two hektographs hinged together, for doing both sides of a sheet simultaneously. This is but a brief outline of the process. Almost any good bond paper will do for the making originals. Typing may be done by means of a special hekto typewriter ribbon, or better yet, with carbon manufactured especially for this purpose. Using either method, make a copy of the material you wish to duplicate. If the special ribbon is used, type directly on the sheet of the master; if the carbon, best results are made if you type on the back of the carbon, which faces the master. A hekto carbon can be used ONLY ONCE. If you use the carbon, your regular ribbon need not be removed. Hekto ink for making masters is sold in practically all colors. Draw or write with hex ink with an ordinary straight pen, and [underlined] do not blot the wet ink -- let it dry thoroughly. Nor should you overlook hekto pencils, which come in several hues, although they produce fewer copies than the hekto inks. Hex pencils are not so hot for lettering, but are used to much greater advantage in the shadings in artwork. Now that our master copy is done, let's get down to the business of hektoing, itself. If you're using a [underlined] new hektograph for the [underlined] first time, it is the best plan to wash off the surface powder with [underlined] luke-warm water. Use a sponge for applying water to the gelatin. Moisten the hektograph with cool water, and blot off the excess with a piece of old newspaper or other soft paper. Take your master lovingly in hand; then place it face downward upon the jelly and smooth it out carefully. Rub the back of it carefully, too, so it don's slip or slide, and allow it to remain there for about a minute and a half. Ten remove with a smooth a motion as possible. Place blank sheets of paper (ordinary dime-store typing paper is excellent), one by one on the hekto, smooth 'em out, and remove. Keep at it until you have as many copies as you wish. If you are making a lot of them, you may have to moisten the gelatin from time to time, but don't wash or scrub -- just moisten. When you are finished, take the sponge and wash the jelly with luke-warm water. Don't scrub -- just moisten. Blot with paper, and store the thing in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. The Hektograph, it seems, is a creature of darkness.
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[title centered] HEKTO AND DITTO REPRODUCTION Prepared by JOE KENNEDY, New Jersey A Hektograph is a flat, rectangular metal pan filled with a gelatin containing glycerin. Originals are drawn or typed in specially made hekto inks composed largely of pigment. The mast copy is placed face downward on the moistened gelatin, removed, and blank paper lain on the hekto, rubbed lightly, and taken off. The glycerin jelly thus leaves an impression on each sheet of paper. Hektographs are made in the three usual sizes: Note, about 5 1/4 x 8"; Letter, 8 1/2 x 11", and Legal, 10 x 14". Also, double hektos are obtainable -- actually two hektographs hinged together, for doing both sides of a sheet simultaneously. This is but a brief outline of the process. Almost any good bond paper will do for the making originals. Typing may be done by means of a special hekto typewriter ribbon, or better yet, with carbon manufactured especially for this purpose. Using either method, make a copy of the material you wish to duplicate. If the special ribbon is used, type directly on the sheet of the master; if the carbon, best results are made if you type on the back of the carbon, which faces the master. A hekto carbon can be used ONLY ONCE. If you use the carbon, your regular ribbon need not be removed. Hekto ink for making masters is sold in practically all colors. Draw or write with hex ink with an ordinary straight pen, and [underlined] do not blot the wet ink -- let it dry thoroughly. Nor should you overlook hekto pencils, which come in several hues, although they produce fewer copies than the hekto inks. Hex pencils are not so hot for lettering, but are used to much greater advantage in the shadings in artwork. Now that our master copy is done, let's get down to the business of hektoing, itself. If you're using a [underlined] new hektograph for the [underlined] first time, it is the best plan to wash off the surface powder with [underlined] luke-warm water. Use a sponge for applying water to the gelatin. Moisten the hektograph with cool water, and blot off the excess with a piece of old newspaper or other soft paper. Take your master lovingly in hand; then place it face downward upon the jelly and smooth it out carefully. Rub the back of it carefully, too, so it don's slip or slide, and allow it to remain there for about a minute and a half. Ten remove with a smooth a motion as possible. Place blank sheets of paper (ordinary dime-store typing paper is excellent), one by one on the hekto, smooth 'em out, and remove. Keep at it until you have as many copies as you wish. If you are making a lot of them, you may have to moisten the gelatin from time to time, but don't wash or scrub -- just moisten. When you are finished, take the sponge and wash the jelly with luke-warm water. Don't scrub -- just moisten. Blot with paper, and store the thing in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. The Hektograph, it seems, is a creature of darkness.
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